WillM wrote:Hot-Lap Ride-Along, a.k.a. HLRA.
As for a hot-lap TIMER, I think you have a good plan. See if the track life is for you (and with that car, how could it not?!?!) before spending any money. You'll be too busy learning the line, driving techniques, paying attention to flags, and filtering your instructor to be watching lap times at your first event!
- Will
Would a Racelogic Performance VBOX work as a Hot-Lap Timer? I own a Performance VBOX, which is able to do Lap Timing but I don't think it's the same as a Hot-Lap Timer. I'm going to bring the Performance VBOX with me to the Event anyways because what I can also do is, Time my Laps using the Performance VBOX and record the data to a SD Card, and I'll be video recording my track time with a GO PRO Camera, then when I get home, I'll use a program called TrackVision, and what that does is takes the data, such as MPH and Lap Times from the Performance VBOX, and takes the Video from the GO PRO Camera and in the end, I'll have a video which I can post on YouTube and on the video, it will show what my speed is and my lap times are.
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offcamber09 wrote:
Are the tires runflats? Regardless- I think the theory of raising tire pressures 4-6 psi over stock is aimed more toward the typical street car with 32 psi. There are many who use the 40 psi hot method to dial in the pressures. I have always used tire temperatures- but for your first event this procedure is probably more of a distraction than necessary. I would start with the 38 psi and keep the front to rear ratio similar to stock- ie. if it calls for 38 front and 36 rear- make your changes with this split in mind. If you make changes- do them in 1-2 psi steps- any larger changes will dramatically change the handling of the car at it's limits- maybe for the better- but be aware of the potential changes.
Have fun.
-Scott
The Tires are NON-RUN FLATS.
I decided to go with NON-Run Flats, mainly because I was getting sick of the Harsh Ride with the Run-Flats. Also, I did more searching about raising the tire pressure and have found that it more applies to Autocross Events, which would make more since. Autocross Racers usually raise their tire pressure 4-6 psi higher then the factory recommendation to prevent rubbing and other stuff.
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Another question regarding Wheels/Tires:
The Wheels you see in the Pic on my first Post are 16x7 O.Z. Superturismo WRC Wheels and the Tires I use on them are 195/55-16. The Wheels weigh 21.0 lbs. I have switched back to the Factory wheels which are, 18x7 and weigh 19.8 lbs. The tires I use on these wheels are 205/40-18.
I'm starting to wonder now if I should use the 16x7 O.Z. Superturismo WRC Wheels, instead of the Factory 18x7 Wheels. What would you guys suggest??
Last but not least...Brakes:
I plan on getting new Brake Pads for the Front and Rear before I hit the track, because I don't want to worry about brake failure.
I'm either going to use Hawk HP Plus, which is basically a Street Legal Track Pad used for Autocross and Track Driving Events. This Pad would allow me do my track sessions BUT also allow me to drive back home safely.
Another option would be Hawk HPS Performance Pads, which is a step down from the Hawk HP Plus Pads but they would still offer better braking. These are more for Street use.
Which Pads should I go with? Please note, there are not many Brake Pads out there for the John Cooper Works Brakes. I want a pad that is also Street Legal, not just for Track.
I'm also going to install a Front Brake Cooling Duct to help cool the brakes.
Adam