Brake Work Suggestions?

[L8ApexVR4]

It is time to check/refresh my brakes before hitting the track again next spring, so I thought I'd tap the vast COM knowledge base.

I have a Brembo Big Kit with Hawk HT-10 pads up front that run very warm but much better than stock (car is too heavy, I brake too much ) that I would like an expert to check over, instead of just me doing basic pad swaps, bleads, etc. I want to make sure rotors are still good, calipers/pistons clamp and release properly, rubber seals are fresh and usable, maybe add ductwork.

Do any of you veteran trackrats have any good suggestions as to who to see/where to go for this? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

[StephanAlfa]

My vote goes for Carbotech... I have a race/street combo and have had excellent results with it.

[breakaway500]

Second on the Carbotechs. Love them on my Focus.

I am calling them today to see if they can make me a set for my Atom.(I like the 10's rear and 12's up front)

[rajito]

Sorry, I have to disagree on the Carbotech pads. My XP12's were crap at Mont Tremblant 3 yrs ago and fell apart completely (i.e., I'd pick up the pad and the material would fall off). Same happened to other STI's.

I had better luck with PFC's and Pagids.

Raj

[TroyV]

I used Cobalt XR2's front this season and found them to be amazing for my car weighing in at 3800 pounds. I got five or so track days out of them......hammering the brakes all along before they gave up the ghost. I ran cobalt GTS pads rear, and they are still on the car less than half worn.

[breakaway500]

I have Pagids on the Atom now,and am quite disappointed in their bite and release. I have tried two different compounds,and was told the rs4-2-1's would put me over the hood,but they feel just like the original rs4-2's.
The Carbotechs however delivered just as promised in the Focus.

I guess it really is difficult to suggest a brake pad due to the many variables involved in cars and driver techniques.

Did you call Carbotech about the pad failure? Their tech support have been very helpfull for me.

[L8ApexVR4]

I think everyone who replied to the post mistakenly thought I wanted to replace the Brembo kit...no, I just want someone who knows more about them than me to make sure they are ok and reliable for next season.

I get a scraping/rubbing sound after each session, then when they cool off they are fine until they get warm again (track or street). I will replace pads this winter, but want to make sure all seals, rubber boots, lines, etc. are all in good shape, calipers release as they should, etc....and if not, be able to order/replace them easily.

So, I guess what I'm looking for is a recommendation of a "brake expert" who would be willing to take a look at them.

Thanks!

[chaos4NH]

I think everyone who replied to the post mistakenly thought I wanted to replace the Brembo kit...no, I just want someone who knows more about them than me to make sure they are ok and reliable for next season.

I get a scraping/rubbing sound after each session, then when they cool off they are fine until they get warm again (track or street). I will replace pads this winter, but want to make sure all seals, rubber boots, lines, etc. are all in good shape, calipers release as they should, etc....and if not, be able to order/replace them easily.

So, I guess what I'm looking for is a recommendation of a "brake expert" who would be willing to take a look at them.

Thanks!

If your car did not come from the factory with the Brembo Big Brake Kit, you will have to change that SSU classification. You would go to SPB if brakes are not stock on a turbo car. Just an FYI.

[962porsche]

i lost my brakes 3 times at NHIS this past weekend with the honda using stock pads and rotors. it got so bad when i started to brake at the number 4 marker for turn 1 i just packed up and went home . i think cooling ducts would fix l8apexvr4 problem . i use them on the porsche and brake temps are 768 right side front and 776 left front degrees at nhis .

[DanDarcy]

I run Brembo brakes on my Mustang, 3740# with out the overweight driver. The first year I ran the stock Brembo pads, they worked well but I went through 4 sets and sheared of a rotor at the hat. I went to DBA 4000 rotors the second year with Hawk "Blue" pads. The pads lasted the whole year and the rotors lasted over two seasons. The rotor temps never went over the base sensor color, I think 1066 degrees. Last year I installed DBA 5000 rotors (alloy hats), and Hawk "blue" pads. With this set up the rotor temps went past the high sensor (1250 degrees) but seem to work fine even though the "blues" are good for 1000 degrees.If I run the car again, I am going to install some kind of cooling ducts.

Sam is correct, you can not run a big brake kit in SSU. You could in ST if another year of your model car was offered from the factory with them, like my Mustang where the 2000 Cobra R came with them, other wise you go into SP. Cooling ducts will also take you out of SS.
Good luck, your car should run well with the Brembos (bleed them before every event)

[offcamber09]

Last year I installed DBA 5000 rotors (alloy hats), and Hawk "blue" pads. With this set up the rotor temps went past the high sensor (1250 degrees) but seem to work fine even though the "blues" are good for 1000 degrees.If I run the car again, I am going to install some kind of cooling ducts.

Dan, I think that is a by-product of you going/stopping faster. I went with Hawk DT70s up front and blues in the back and was impressed with the difference.

BTW we missed you this weekend- hope all goes well.

-Scott

[enjoythemusic]

My buddy, who worked for Brembo for a long time and now custom makes brake packages for pro teams, says the Brembo pads are made by Ferodo. i really like the Ferodo 3000 series pads, with the 2500 series being good for the REAR of the tintop car i had as due to larger, uprated fronts i had to BALANCE the front/rear of the car's brake package (did not want to install a brake bias adjustment knob/system).

As for ducts, they are available at Pegasus Auto Racing and i used them with 2-inch tubes going to the CENTER of the rotor and NOT/NEVER the edge. You want the rotors to be of the type that have internal vanes, so that air flows within them for cooling and MAKE SURE you have the right and left rotors correct so that the vanes are flowing air out of them correctly.

Lastly, i really like the Motul 600 brake fluid. AP is also good, yet i liked a little more compression ability in my brake fluid, as this allowed me to better 'feel' the brakes and modulate them from damn near lockup for maximum braking ability. Brake fluid and the 'feel' you want is a personal preference of course.

As for if your calipers need servicing, when in doubt REBUILD them. Brakes are too darn important to take ANY chances.

Hope this helps.

[962porsche]

enjoythemusic makes a very good point about were to install the duct on the backing plate as close to the center of the rotor as you can . there are also other tricks with cooling ducts to do like starting with a 3inch tubing and droping it down to a 2 inch to speed up the air flow .and leave the backing plates on the car . there on the car to help in cooling the rotors .i also use ferodo pads on the porsche they will take a lap or two to come up to temp but on fade at all after that . if your using a straight vane rotor then there is no left or right side . but if your using sloted then there is . some peaple say no to this .but not true ! to get the most out of a sloted rotor then they must remove the hot gas from between the pad and rotor . so the top of the slot should face forword .

[brucesallen]

keep in mind two different brake failure symptoms and their causes:
1. Hard pedal but car won't stop. This due to using a street pad that has passed its temperature range. There is no such thing as a street/track pad unless you only run autocrosses. Get a good race pad. There is no limit to their temperature but they need heat to work and may not stop well on the street. So change the pads at the track.
2. Pedal goes to the floor after a few laps but comes back if you back off. This is brake fluid boiling, not the pads. I assume you already had newly bled brakes so first use Motul 600 DOT4 or the like. If that does not work you need brake ducts or you should brake less and go faster through (or off) the corners.

[paultg]

I think everyone who replied to the post mistakenly thought I wanted to replace the Brembo kit...no, I just want someone who knows more about them than me to make sure they are ok and reliable for next season.

I get a scraping/rubbing sound after each session, then when they cool off they are fine until they get warm again (track or street). I will replace pads this winter, but want to make sure all seals, rubber boots, lines, etc. are all in good shape, calipers release as they should, etc....and if not, be able to order/replace them easily.

So, I guess what I'm looking for is a recommendation of a "brake expert" who would be willing to take a look at them.

Thanks!

Where in MA are you? Les is a COM instructor and owns/operations Apex Automotive in Marborough, MA. He specializes in Miatas but could probably look things over for you. Give him a call. www.apexautoeng.com


If that is far away; let us know your location. There are plenty of places to go (HMS Motorsports, etc.) all have experience with track setups.

Paul G.