Ok, color me perplexed. Have a 3.5mm hex (Allen) bolt with flat head/countersunk now with stripped head. Anyone near Kenne NH have a bolt extractor set of good quality to get at this 10-grade flushed bolt?
Many thanks. Will go to Sears tomorrow and see what kits they have, problem is it appears many kits handle Grade 8 and i have a 10+ here.
ADDED: Got an 'Easy-Out' kit today that says it will do Grade 10.8... we'll see as am busy until the weekend.
Help extract flush bolt
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- Speed Racer
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- Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2005 8:51 am
- Location: New Hampshire
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- Speed Racer
- Posts: 618
- Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2005 8:51 am
- Location: New Hampshire
- Contact:
Re: Help extract flush bolt
The Saers 'Easy Out' for $50 kit or whatever worked, but WOW what a PITA bolt! Have dealt with some pesky things in my life, but WOW this was something from...
Steven:
Glad you got that socket head bolt out, but I think that you were luckier than the average bear to do it.
Material that hard often just breaks the extractor.
Then you need to weld/ braze/ Ag solder a hex bolt to the socket head and turn that. Not fun.
You got lucky.
Best Regards - Bill Miskoe
Glad you got that socket head bolt out, but I think that you were luckier than the average bear to do it.
Material that hard often just breaks the extractor.
Then you need to weld/ braze/ Ag solder a hex bolt to the socket head and turn that. Not fun.
You got lucky.
Best Regards - Bill Miskoe
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- Speed Racer
- Posts: 618
- Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2005 8:51 am
- Location: New Hampshire
- Contact:
Bill,
Thanks and yes got lucky as just as the bolt was finally being extracted the head of the tapered-head hex came off! Fortunately there was enough of the bolt that had come out for me to use other methods to grasp the threaded part and convince it the remainder of the way. Like you said, another kit i tried was rated to grade 8 and that was pretty much worthless. The Sears kit said it did 10-grade stuff and it sure did. Have dealt with stuck bolts before, yet this one was a really tough nut to crack! Sitting on my desk is the hex head as one part and the threaded bit as the other. Gotta order a new bolt and a few spares from Pegasus Auto as no one seems to have these things. Fortunately they are only 10 cents each, if it was Italian it would be an easy $5 each.
Thanks and yes got lucky as just as the bolt was finally being extracted the head of the tapered-head hex came off! Fortunately there was enough of the bolt that had come out for me to use other methods to grasp the threaded part and convince it the remainder of the way. Like you said, another kit i tried was rated to grade 8 and that was pretty much worthless. The Sears kit said it did 10-grade stuff and it sure did. Have dealt with stuck bolts before, yet this one was a really tough nut to crack! Sitting on my desk is the hex head as one part and the threaded bit as the other. Gotta order a new bolt and a few spares from Pegasus Auto as no one seems to have these things. Fortunately they are only 10 cents each, if it was Italian it would be an easy $5 each.
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- Speed Racer
- Posts: 618
- Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2005 8:51 am
- Location: New Hampshire
- Contact:
Thanks for the tip. The problem was the bolt was recessed in a spot combined with the hex head being tapered and recessed/flush-mounted (countersunk 82 degrees). Adding to that, the hex head is 'reduced size,' see www.PegasusAutoRacing.com part number 632-3-1.250 as an example. So getting a Dremil in there was not an option for ease of making a cut for flat head useSubw00er wrote:When this happens to me I get the dremel (or very small, good quality drill bit) out and drill out a line on top of the bolt so I can use a flat head screwdriver.
Am going to replace it with a non-recessed head, normal bolt head as in the spot it was located does not need to be recessed nor tapered. Will do the same for the bolt's sister on the other side of the car, which did easily come off of course only to make me more frustrated towards the stuck one.
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