remember to check your brake lines

[enjoythemusic]

tell Nissan they screwed up then. the car is as stock as it gets

Even on the Ferrari 308 the stock brake lines were lackluster. The pedal obviously firmed up a bit when a change was made to the steel braided Goodridge lines, so perhaps stock brake lines are not 'all they can be' even on some <cough>exotic<cough> cars.

[mr2sc]

when using speedbleeders its important to check and renew the teflon paint on the threads.

otherwise, after the coating wears off (after dz or so bleedings) air will seep by and get into the system when releasing the pedal

been there (as witnessed by several COM members who then helped me bleed brakes as if they were regular bleeders)

[Subw00er]

An alternate to speedbleeders is this:

http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html


I've used the power bleeder for a couple years and love it. It makes 1-person operation really easy. As you bleed, the vaccum effect adds fresh fluid to match what you've drained into the bleeder bottle, so you dont have to worry about the level dropping too low in the resevoir. I just fill the bottle with X amount, and then bleed X amount, so I know I'll be even when I'm done.

If you get the power bleeder, get the bleed bottles too - nice to have.

[Subw00er]

Does anyone know if SS brake lines will hop me out of SSU?

EDIT: I just checked the rule book - adding SS lines is ok:

"BRAKES

1. Any brake fluid, brake pad and/or shoes may be used. Braided stainless/teflon brake lines may be used."

[chaos4NH]

I would say "check your pads, also"!
I ordered new Carbotech front pads for the red wagon, thinking of all the miles and track days my Sentra ran on the OEM rears. I was removing the race rims to have the RA1s mounted and was shocked to see the REAR pads had nothing left! That after 11,000 miles and only 3 track days!
I located some new rear OEM pads for the time being, then got another shock when I examined the OEM front pads that came out. The backing plate appeared to have warped, contact was about 50% of the pad surface and they all had CRACKS in them! oh my! Maybe Papa Mazda didn't think anyone would track the car??
The answer for the worn rears appears to be the bias setting and rear porportioning that occurs under hard braking, all to keep from nose diving.
I find the braking to be very good, so I won't complain, but will check those pads (or simply replace) after every track outing.
Has anyone experienced anything similar on different car brands?

[Subw00er]

I would say "check your pads, also"!
I ordered new Carbotech front pads for the red wagon, thinking of all the miles and track days my Sentra ran on the OEM rears. I was removing the race rims to have the RA1s mounted and was shocked to see the REAR pads had nothing left! That after 11,000 miles and only 3 track days!
I located some new rear OEM pads for the time being, then got another shock when I examined the OEM front pads that came out. The backing plate appeared to have warped, contact was about 50% of the pad surface and they all had CRACKS in them! oh my! Maybe Papa Mazda didn't think anyone would track the car??
The answer for the worn rears appears to be the bias setting and rear porportioning that occurs under hard braking, all to keep from nose diving.
I find the braking to be very good, so I won't complain, but will check those pads (or simply replace) after every track outing.
Has anyone experienced anything similar on different car brands?

When I first started tracking my car, I noticed this too. I came off the track at Mosport with an ominous screeching noise which turned out to be the pad wear indicators scratching away at the rotor. The cause of the really fast wear turned out to be the active handling system which liked to use rear brakes to get the car back in line. I run with the AH system off now and as expected, the rears wear much better than the fronts.

You'll be really happy with the carbotechs. These are my preferred pad (I use a XP10/XP8 Front/Rear combo). They wear great and you can run them right down to the backing plate without the pad material flaking off or cracking (This is as per Carbotechs suggestion). They also suggest a proper bedding in procedure (which I agree helps a lot). There is great info on bedding in your new pads on Stoptech's website:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_be ... ents.shtml

[tmak26b]

trying having a non brembo z, rear brakes last 250 miles on the track alone, this is on race pads

[grovefromnh]

Another way to help your brakes work better is to bake them before installing them in the car. Use an old toasteroven,(yard sale, etc). Put oven outside, load in new pads, set temp for 350'. run oven for 30 mins. unplug oven. Don't open door as cold air will crack pads. Let them cool naturally. Pads will now be outgassed, so they will work better when first installed. 'Green fade' will be greatly reduced. Pads will live longer.