COM NHIS in July

Any and all discussions concerning events.
tmak26b
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Joined: Tue Dec 12, 2006 11:48 pm

Post by tmak26b » Sat Mar 24, 2007 9:40 am

Don't worry, I will get something done. It's just a matter of what I am going to do, I have a small budget for this year. Let see how I am going to disturbute the money around. I have like 10 track days lined up already, so I gotta come up with something. Having to replace brake pads every 2 events stink! Maybe I should just trade in my car and get something with real brakes.

I have the stock rubber line, my car is stock remember.

By the way, how hot are my brakes? All the caliper boots around the piston are melted. I had them replace under warranty twice, they both failed again
enjoythemusic wrote:
tmak26b wrote:That's a cool little product, I gotta try that once I find a new tenant on the new condo.
Always glad to help.

I guess I will just take the bullet and try the castrol SRF fluid.
Perhaps not really THE solution, i'd suggest getting air ducts/more air flow. Ducts can easily be added and removed, in essence leaving the car stock per your wishes. Another suggestion is to use 'shims' behind the brake pads. Call the guys at Girodisc, as these are small metal plates that help to reduce, to some extent, the heat from the pads from migrating to the brake calipers. IMHO that would be better than SRF, but if you are like me i'd use SRF, the backing plated, air ducts and whatever is NEEDED for consistent and reliable performance. As you know, brakes is one of the LAST THINGS you want to fail.

You never answered... you DO have steel braided brake lines from the calipers to the hard-lines, yes?

Overkill is a good thing provided in the end the brake temps at still in their optimum range. If there is one thing i did right with the tintop here, she is designed for safety and endurance.

Frankly, if it was my i'd hire race car professional brake technicians to diagnose and solve your situation ASAP before EVER tracking the car again. While you might feel that could be very expensive, it really is not THAT much. Kinda like the saying "$20 helmet, $20 head). As an FYI: brake pros analyze and provide accurate data as seen at http://www.enjoythetrack.com/ferrari/Br ... 0308QV.pdf

The world is a much better place with you in it, please check and resolve those brakes before your next track event.

Don P
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Location: Medfield, MA

Post by Don P » Sat Mar 24, 2007 3:54 pm

Melting boots is normal. Most regular racers just don't even bother with them or find another protection scheme.
Don
"Senior" Instructor

enjoythemusic
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Location: New Hampshire
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Post by enjoythemusic » Sun Mar 25, 2007 10:30 am

tmak26b wrote:Don't worry, I will get something done. It's just a matter of what I am going to do, I have a small budget for this year.
Amen about trying to reduce costs. You are preaching to the choir!Running brake ducts is CHEAP insurance. PegasusAuto has the orange higher temp stuff for around $40 or so, then just fab up a mounting scheme. Went with three-inch pipe from my front to the rotors. Would take pics of what i did, but the car has a few inches of snow on her right now plus the hardpack driveway is a bit soft due to 'pre-mud' season.

Having to replace brake pads every 2 events stink!
Ferodo pads, for me, last more than two track events. it also depends on what version you get as you may also find rotor wear being higher. Usually have at least two complete sets of brake rotor and pad replacements on hand at all times for all four corners.

Maybe I should just trade in my car and get something with real brakes.
Well, if it is ONLY a brake issue and you love everything else that would be akin to throwing out the baby with the bath water. All the sanctioned bodies allow you to go with braided brake lines 'free.' As i recall, the Vette or Ford or ??? had brake problems due to stock rubber lines. Goodridge steel braided lines may be of help (can't hurt) and a fast and dirty web search shows they are $196 at http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates ... SearchYN=N

By the way, how hot are my brakes? All the caliper boots around the piston are melted. I had them replace under warranty twice, they both failed again
Like Don said, normal. Commend you wanting to stay 100% stock, obviously you have problems. Besides brake failure you are also melting bits perhaps a bit faster than 'normal.' It also makes me wonder, as a side note, what lubrication Nissan uses in their boots but let us not open another can of worms, eh?

Don and other here REALLY know their stuff and have many more years of experience over lowly 'old and slow' me. Lots of great info from the other guys here.
Enjoy the Track,

Steven R.
http://www.EnjoyTheTrack.com

tmak26b
Speed Setter
Speed Setter
Posts: 112
Joined: Tue Dec 12, 2006 11:48 pm

Post by tmak26b » Sun Mar 25, 2007 9:11 pm

I will make a decision on something before my first time trial. I have to start playing with the brakes once I get the car back from the dealer this week. Thanks for everyone's input, I will let you know what I found out.

By the way, my stock rotors lasted through 5 sets of race pads and I have 33K on the stock pads with 200 autox passes on them. I think they are just about done.

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