Weight Reduction vs Cost vs Laptimes

[DanDarcy]

Raj - - can you put on my helmet and run my Mustang Cobra for me ? That should save me about 200#s -- enough to win the class

Mike have you moved your battery to the right rear of the trunk ? I did this on mine and it does help and has no effect on streetability. Last year at NHIS I weighted my car on their scales. You should try that. you can weight right and left, also front to back. It good information to have. Your IRS Cobra has a slight better rear weight biais than the sold axle like my, the irs is a lot heavier than the sold axle. But the whole thing boils down to the fact that all Cobras are nose heavy and hard to handle.

[offcamber09]

Ideally, you want the battery behind the passenger seat (in between the axles). I guess this affects "streetability"- that's no much of an issue in my car anymore. I've gutted my car and it's still above 3000#. I could go with a fiberglass rear hatch, but that's rear weight- as Greg said, losing that weight may be counter-productive. I could go with an aluminum block- but I'm really not interested in a $5,000 block.

Mike, the seats look great. Until you make the commitment to a dedicated track car- I don't think you can make a measurable difference in lap times by reducing weight in your car. But once you take the plunge- you could do some damage in SPA with that car weighing in around 3200#. Ever hear of any '03/'04 Cobras getting that light ?

BTW, I could do some damage in SPA with that motor in my car!

[Crusin]

Isn't there an old adage, something about a slippery path?

[offcamber09]

Isn't there an old adage, something about a slippery path?

Those would be my footprints on that path- along with a crowd of others. Where does this path lead again- I forgot?

[jadams]

Since my engine is almost back together I am hoping to be able to attend the NHIS event. The only weight reduction that this project has done for me is that my wallet is a lot lighter now!!! I wonder what effect that will have on my laptimes? Actually, my block would be lighter since it is bored out for the larger pistons. That has got to be worth something.

[TTA89]

I wonder what is involved if you wanted to convert to an Aluminum LS1?

Here are my alignment specs currently.

Front
-1.5 Camber
+4.6 Caster
-0.07 Toe

Rear
-1.1 Camber
+0.08 Toe

I can't get anymore front neg camber in there with the stock K-member and A-arms. The left side will actually slide in to -2.2 and although its not even from side to side I'm actually quicker at the Auto Xs when I pushed it in so I'm leaving it like that. I beleive thats max caster too.

I still have more time in the tires, I noticed most guys were running Hoosiers which although are fast are $$$. I have a set of Avon Tech Rs that I bought on closeout for almost 1/2 the cost of V710s, they work well for driving days and learning the track but they def don't have the grip of 710s. I have a couple sets of V710s that I use for Auto X so I know i have some time in a tire swap if I want.

Plus I'm still learning the tracks and how to drive the car in a different enviornment than what I'm used too, I know there is tons of time left the way it sits. I just need more seat time to bring it out. :salute:

It is a slippery slope! I was just planning to buy tires and brake pads this year... Instead I bought nearly 4 grand worth of stuff that doesn't make the car go any faster. Rollbar, Seats, Harnesses, Suit, Gloves... I just had to make the decision that I enjoy doing this and if something should ever happen I want to walk away from it. Although I hope I never have to test any of this stuff.

As for losing weight and turning it into a track car, I think its possible to get it down to ~3300-3400 without driver by pulling stuff out like the A/C, Airbags, interior, etc. I'm not at all interested at this point, I think if I decide to go with something more dedicated I'd be interested in a setup E36. I hear the LS1/T56 fits and retains 50/50 weight dist. I'm still a drag racer at heart, I just can't drive something that doesn't accelerate when you step on it. No offense to the Miata guys of course

[JackFFR1846]

Hoosiers would definately make a difference, but be prepared for them to last about a weekend on your car! They work very well on light, unpowered cars like mine. The rear Hoosiers are on their 3rd year.

Seat time is everything!!!

Put Bruce in a stock street Miata on snow tires and his lap times are going to be faster than a newbie in a Z06 with Hoosiers. And no....I'm not kidding.

jack

[offcamber09]

Put Bruce in a stock street Miata on snow tires and his lap times are going to be faster than a newbie in a Z06 with Hoosiers. And no....I'm not kidding.

jack

What if we stud those snows ?

[timmmy]

I wonder what is involved if you wanted to convert to an Aluminum LS1?

Here are my alignment specs currently.

Front
-1.5 Camber
+4.6 Caster
-0.07 Toe

Rear
-1.1 Camber
+0.08 Toe

I can't get anymore front neg camber in there with the stock K-member and A-arms. The left side will actually slide in to -2.2 and although its not even from side to side I'm actually quicker at the Auto Xs when I pushed it in so I'm leaving it like that. I beleive thats max caster too.

I still have more time in the tires, I noticed most guys were running Hoosiers which although are fast are $$$. I have a set of Avon Tech Rs that I bought on closeout for almost 1/2 the cost of V710s, they work well for driving days and learning the track but they def don't have the grip of 710s. I have a couple sets of V710s that I use for Auto X so I know i have some time in a tire swap if I want.

Plus I'm still learning the tracks and how to drive the car in a different enviornment than what I'm used too, I know there is tons of time left the way it sits. I just need more seat time to bring it out. :salute:

It is a slippery slope! I was just planning to buy tires and brake pads this year... Instead I bought nearly 4 grand worth of stuff that doesn't make the car go any faster. Rollbar, Seats, Harnesses, Suit, Gloves... I just had to make the decision that I enjoy doing this and if something should ever happen I want to walk away from it. Although I hope I never have to test any of this stuff.

As for losing weight and turning it into a track car, I think its possible to get it down to ~3300-3400 without driver by pulling stuff out like the A/C, Airbags, interior, etc. I'm not at all interested at this point, I think if I decide to go with something more dedicated I'd be interested in a setup E36. I hear the LS1/T56 fits and retains 50/50 weight dist. I'm still a drag racer at heart, I just can't drive something that doesn't accelerate when you step on it. No offense to the Miata guys of course

Actually all those non go faster safety parts will make you faster....youll feel more bulletproff, more of a race car, so youll push harder (thats sort of a word of warning - BTDT)