rims
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rims
any one know what car makers use a 5 on 4 3/4 " bolt circle for there wheels .
then what independent rear suspension would they also have/offer .
i'm building a new back half for my diasio so i can get rid of the solid axle .
then what independent rear suspension would they also have/offer .
i'm building a new back half for my diasio so i can get rid of the solid axle .
Last edited by 962porsche on Tue Sep 11, 2012 11:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: rims
Dave
E36 328is | SD #14
E36 328is | SD #14
- breakaway500
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Re: rims
DO the Miata back half! Buy a wrecked NA/NB Miata,sell off the motor/trans etc etc and use the whole rear setup.You get a free back half! It will work.
Then sell the Diasio wheels you have,or keep a few for the front. 4x100 Miata wheels are inexpensive and readily available even in 15x10" wide. Then you can run positive camber out back,and use the uber-sticky FA tires..that sell for cheap money as scuffs. If you are worried about having two different BP on the car, (I don't know why..) you could use billet adaptors up front 4x100 to 5x4.75. I did that on the Atom when I ran 17" wheels/tires. Most cars running 5 lug IRS rear setups are heavy cars!That means overly heavy diffs/axles/hubs/control arms etc etc.
The Miata is the one to use...Inexpensive..bulletproof..factory Torsens,good factory gear ratios..disc brakes,readily available and LIGHT. Do it.
Then sell the Diasio wheels you have,or keep a few for the front. 4x100 Miata wheels are inexpensive and readily available even in 15x10" wide. Then you can run positive camber out back,and use the uber-sticky FA tires..that sell for cheap money as scuffs. If you are worried about having two different BP on the car, (I don't know why..) you could use billet adaptors up front 4x100 to 5x4.75. I did that on the Atom when I ran 17" wheels/tires. Most cars running 5 lug IRS rear setups are heavy cars!That means overly heavy diffs/axles/hubs/control arms etc etc.
The Miata is the one to use...Inexpensive..bulletproof..factory Torsens,good factory gear ratios..disc brakes,readily available and LIGHT. Do it.
It's not what you drive, it's how you drive. "Lap times matter"
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Re: rims
i'm not going to use the miata's dif or the housing because of weight .
i'm going with just the dif out of the winters rear i have . the wedgelock dif are very strong and light weight i'm going to remove the ring gear and replace it with a sprocket . there is a CO that makes split rear sprockets for quick gear changing . kind of like they have for shifter karts only in 530 chain size .
i want to keep the 5 on 4.75 bolt pattern i have i can just get the same rims i'm running for the rears in a 12" wide rim . there light strong and cheap (cost) .
the FA cars are using 12" wide wheels in the rear .
9.5's in front i do have a set of 9" wide rims for the fronts so i'm good there .
i was looking at the mazda RX8 rear suspensions they are lighter and offer alot of ajustment . they are also 5 lug . i was looking at a miata in my shop and i can not redrill the hubs to match the 5 on 4.75 rims .
any totaled car i get i can pull the rear suspension and sell off the other parts though there is a much bigger market for the miata's i would think ?
i'm looking at weight as a big thing with my car . when my diasio was built it was a light car in it's class ( DSR ) at 900 LBS but now 750 LBS is the what the cars are weighting in as dry . so i need to drop as much weight as i can . i'm even thinking of building a aluminum back half for the car to save wieght .
i'm going with just the dif out of the winters rear i have . the wedgelock dif are very strong and light weight i'm going to remove the ring gear and replace it with a sprocket . there is a CO that makes split rear sprockets for quick gear changing . kind of like they have for shifter karts only in 530 chain size .
i want to keep the 5 on 4.75 bolt pattern i have i can just get the same rims i'm running for the rears in a 12" wide rim . there light strong and cheap (cost) .
the FA cars are using 12" wide wheels in the rear .
9.5's in front i do have a set of 9" wide rims for the fronts so i'm good there .
i was looking at the mazda RX8 rear suspensions they are lighter and offer alot of ajustment . they are also 5 lug . i was looking at a miata in my shop and i can not redrill the hubs to match the 5 on 4.75 rims .
any totaled car i get i can pull the rear suspension and sell off the other parts though there is a much bigger market for the miata's i would think ?
i'm looking at weight as a big thing with my car . when my diasio was built it was a light car in it's class ( DSR ) at 900 LBS but now 750 LBS is the what the cars are weighting in as dry . so i need to drop as much weight as i can . i'm even thinking of building a aluminum back half for the car to save wieght .
Last edited by 962porsche on Tue Sep 11, 2012 2:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: rims
Dave thanks good site !
Re: rims
I was thinking the same thing. +1breakaway500 wrote: Most cars running 5 lug IRS rear setups are heavy cars!That means overly heavy diffs/axles/hubs/control arms etc etc.
The Miata is the one to use...Inexpensive..bulletproof..factory Torsens,good factory gear ratios..disc brakes,readily available and LIGHT. Do it.
If you don't like the Torsen you can use an RX7 clutch diff, or a Giken. They bolt in.
Just saw your last post. Never mind....
Les.
COM Instructor
NA Miata D-TYPE
#77
Drive it like you stole it!
COM Instructor
NA Miata D-TYPE
#77
Drive it like you stole it!
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Re: rims
if you do a google for chain drive differentials you can see the type of rear dif set up i'm going to do .
- breakaway500
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Re: rims
"then what independent rear suspension would they also have/offer"
It sounded like you wanted to swap in the whole "wheel" donor cars diff assy with that statement.
"i was looking at the mazda RX8 rear suspensions they are lighter and offer alot of ajustment" Again..confusing...
Lighter? Lighter than what? Not a Miata setup. Passing on using the Miata IRS because of a wheel mismatch...I just don't get it.
From what I remember looking at your car,you are still going to have to fabricate a lot of "stuff" to hang an IRS setup back there.
I was thinking use the Miata setup..bolt a sprocket to the diff imput flange..use a short chain coupling to the output shaft of the bike motor,and then use the entire Miata subframe/axles/hubs/brakes/control arms/coilovers as a ready made IRS unit. Line it up,bolt or weld it on. They are not heavy. The only thing needed would be back wheels,($400/pr) and you could easily run the FA 15x9.5" tires on the 10" Miata wheels,for TONS more traction that what you currently have. With the torque you are making,you don't need 12" tires. (I don't even need the 12" tires on my Atom)
I'm still not sure what you are going to do..but best of luck...
It sounded like you wanted to swap in the whole "wheel" donor cars diff assy with that statement.
"i was looking at the mazda RX8 rear suspensions they are lighter and offer alot of ajustment" Again..confusing...
Lighter? Lighter than what? Not a Miata setup. Passing on using the Miata IRS because of a wheel mismatch...I just don't get it.
From what I remember looking at your car,you are still going to have to fabricate a lot of "stuff" to hang an IRS setup back there.
I was thinking use the Miata setup..bolt a sprocket to the diff imput flange..use a short chain coupling to the output shaft of the bike motor,and then use the entire Miata subframe/axles/hubs/brakes/control arms/coilovers as a ready made IRS unit. Line it up,bolt or weld it on. They are not heavy. The only thing needed would be back wheels,($400/pr) and you could easily run the FA 15x9.5" tires on the 10" Miata wheels,for TONS more traction that what you currently have. With the torque you are making,you don't need 12" tires. (I don't even need the 12" tires on my Atom)
I'm still not sure what you are going to do..but best of luck...
It's not what you drive, it's how you drive. "Lap times matter"
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Re: rims
from what other sites are saying is the comtrol arms and uprights are lighter on the rx8 than the ones on the miata's .
this i can say i really don't know for sure because i have not wade any of them my self . but i was told 1.9 LBS lighter than the miata's per side .
for the new rear back half i am going to change the motor from sitting sideways in the chassis to sitting the way it does in a bike .
this will have some benefits . the 1st is it will get alot of the weight off the right side of the car and move it to center . the other is the baffling in the rill tech oil pan is not made for a motor sitting side ways in a chassis . i could not find any makers of oil pans than do there baffleing in there pans for motors sitting the way my motor sits .
because i'm going to build a totaly new back half i can just use the chassis tubing to mount the tabs for the control arm pickup points off of so i would not need the subframe . i will just need the uprights and control arms .
if i do build the new back half out of aluminum and not metal it will save even more weight .
there are also other things like the way the body needs to be mounted and the wing on the back of the car so this also makes useing the mazda subframe even more difficult . also just by mounting the control arms to the chassis i build i can make the cars track just what i need it to be .
the rx8 bolt circle is a 4.5" and i can get the same style wheels i have for the rears in a 12" wide wheel at about 100 dollars each rim . i could also redrill the RX8 hubs if i want and use the 4.75 inch bolt circle .
the foot print of the tires i have now are 10.2 inches . so going to a 12" is not that much bigger . the FA take off tires are 9.5 in the fronts so the foot print of them are about the same as what i'm running now but just a little narrower .
so the rear axle center section because of weight and the fact i'm turning the motor in the chassis the way it really needs to sit i will not need at all and it will also give me more parts to sell and make my money back from what ever car i pick to use .
i need to save all the weight i can i need to drop a 150 LBS from the car so even a lb or 2 will help me with that .
i'm even going to build a deferent dash for the car to save weight and build a aluminum front subframe that holds the nose panel on the car and get rid of the metal subframe the same goes for the rear subframe for the wing .
this i can say i really don't know for sure because i have not wade any of them my self . but i was told 1.9 LBS lighter than the miata's per side .
for the new rear back half i am going to change the motor from sitting sideways in the chassis to sitting the way it does in a bike .
this will have some benefits . the 1st is it will get alot of the weight off the right side of the car and move it to center . the other is the baffling in the rill tech oil pan is not made for a motor sitting side ways in a chassis . i could not find any makers of oil pans than do there baffleing in there pans for motors sitting the way my motor sits .
because i'm going to build a totaly new back half i can just use the chassis tubing to mount the tabs for the control arm pickup points off of so i would not need the subframe . i will just need the uprights and control arms .
if i do build the new back half out of aluminum and not metal it will save even more weight .
there are also other things like the way the body needs to be mounted and the wing on the back of the car so this also makes useing the mazda subframe even more difficult . also just by mounting the control arms to the chassis i build i can make the cars track just what i need it to be .
the rx8 bolt circle is a 4.5" and i can get the same style wheels i have for the rears in a 12" wide wheel at about 100 dollars each rim . i could also redrill the RX8 hubs if i want and use the 4.75 inch bolt circle .
the foot print of the tires i have now are 10.2 inches . so going to a 12" is not that much bigger . the FA take off tires are 9.5 in the fronts so the foot print of them are about the same as what i'm running now but just a little narrower .
so the rear axle center section because of weight and the fact i'm turning the motor in the chassis the way it really needs to sit i will not need at all and it will also give me more parts to sell and make my money back from what ever car i pick to use .
i need to save all the weight i can i need to drop a 150 LBS from the car so even a lb or 2 will help me with that .
i'm even going to build a deferent dash for the car to save weight and build a aluminum front subframe that holds the nose panel on the car and get rid of the metal subframe the same goes for the rear subframe for the wing .
- breakaway500
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Re: rims
Hmm..I would have thought the motor on the rh side offsets the drivers weight. A subframe made in alu would be snazzy..but a lot of work,and not much lighter than steel. However,if you are building to race in DSR spec classes,I can see why every lb counts.
I was thinking use the Miata rear IRS setup as it would require no engineering etc and everything would be located properly.All you'd have to do is center the subframe into the Diasio and fab up a chain drive to the bike motor.
Still have my eye on that 962RT..
I was thinking use the Miata rear IRS setup as it would require no engineering etc and everything would be located properly.All you'd have to do is center the subframe into the Diasio and fab up a chain drive to the bike motor.
Still have my eye on that 962RT..
It's not what you drive, it's how you drive. "Lap times matter"
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Re: rims
because i moved the fuel cell from high in the back of the car and behind the rear axle line to the right side pod . it also moved all it's weight low center but to the right side of the car were it is not really wanted .
the motor will still have to be to the right a little but nothing like it has to be now .
i also plan on changing the sitting position in the car from the left side to the center of the car . i will have to replace the steering rack to a center pinion rack and move the peddle box over to center .
i tryed to get the chassis spec's from chris diasio for the early diasio cars hopeing he would give them up because the new diasio's no longer use this chassis for the new mazda powered D962R/t 's .
i then would have built jigs/fixtures for my celette frame bench and bench the car and then build the back half . he is worried i will start to build his chassis know that i already build chassis and roll cages for a living .
because of the chassis design of the car now i could not just install the subframe from the miata . there is nothing to mount it to past were the axle is now . the car now has a 4 link set up so at the upper shock mounts the chassis just stops then there is a subframe for the body and wing to bolt to . so no matter what i do i would have to build a new back half to the car for any independent rear suspension i pick to use .
there are so of the guys selling there D962R/t on the diasio forums . bob up in the hartford area was selling one of his D962R's . i have not talked with him sence May or June so i don't know if he sold it yet .
the motor will still have to be to the right a little but nothing like it has to be now .
i also plan on changing the sitting position in the car from the left side to the center of the car . i will have to replace the steering rack to a center pinion rack and move the peddle box over to center .
i tryed to get the chassis spec's from chris diasio for the early diasio cars hopeing he would give them up because the new diasio's no longer use this chassis for the new mazda powered D962R/t 's .
i then would have built jigs/fixtures for my celette frame bench and bench the car and then build the back half . he is worried i will start to build his chassis know that i already build chassis and roll cages for a living .
because of the chassis design of the car now i could not just install the subframe from the miata . there is nothing to mount it to past were the axle is now . the car now has a 4 link set up so at the upper shock mounts the chassis just stops then there is a subframe for the body and wing to bolt to . so no matter what i do i would have to build a new back half to the car for any independent rear suspension i pick to use .
there are so of the guys selling there D962R/t on the diasio forums . bob up in the hartford area was selling one of his D962R's . i have not talked with him sence May or June so i don't know if he sold it yet .
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Re: rims
thanks paul but i'm going to buy a totaled car and then sell off the parts i don't need . by doing that it will not cost me any thing at all and i can then even make money on the car .
as of right now i have a bid in on a 2009 RX8 hit in the right front starts but can not drive for 800 dollars . i'm the only bid on the car so far with 2 days left on bidding . i will top out at 1200 dollars and no more .
so will any one need a motor , trans ,rear dif ,body panels , seats , inner door panels , ????????????????
as of right now i have a bid in on a 2009 RX8 hit in the right front starts but can not drive for 800 dollars . i'm the only bid on the car so far with 2 days left on bidding . i will top out at 1200 dollars and no more .
so will any one need a motor , trans ,rear dif ,body panels , seats , inner door panels , ????????????????
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Re: rims
why not c5 or c6 vette? you can buy a rear cradle and control arms, knuckles etx for 500-800 just about all day if you look, if your fabricating, the uca mounts and shock mounts will be easy. the rear bearing packs are splined and any cv shaft maker can make your combo up. the arms upper and lower are alum, as well as the knuckle and the bolt pattern is 5x4.75
fyi-
uca- 4 lbs ea
lca-9lbs ea
knuckle, with bearing,with steering arms, with steel one piece rotor 40 lb
fyi-
uca- 4 lbs ea
lca-9lbs ea
knuckle, with bearing,with steering arms, with steel one piece rotor 40 lb
69 camaro, dry sump ls6,t-56, 4.10 detroit tru trac lsd rear, c6 front chassis, tq arm rear chassis, 275 front/335 rear tires, atl fuel cell
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Re: rims
i did place a bid on a totaled 2010 camaro for it's rear suspension that was hit in the nose hard . i stoped bidding at 1500 dollars and the car sold for 1800 dollars . i did not know if the motor was good because they stated could not test . but in the photos the front suspension was hit and the nose looked like it was swede over quight a lot . so if there were motor damage i don't know if i could have sold to many part from the car .
i did check out some c5's but most of them totaled sell for 3K TO 4k . i also don't like the leaf spring suspension . i'm sure i could change it to coilovers but i don't know much about US built cars . i'm a euro car person and just finding out about the SBC and LS motors now because i have been doing swaps with them into the 944's and a 928 .
i will find out tomorrow if i won the bid on the rx8 so far i'm the only bid on the car .
i did check out some c5's but most of them totaled sell for 3K TO 4k . i also don't like the leaf spring suspension . i'm sure i could change it to coilovers but i don't know much about US built cars . i'm a euro car person and just finding out about the SBC and LS motors now because i have been doing swaps with them into the 944's and a 928 .
i will find out tomorrow if i won the bid on the rx8 so far i'm the only bid on the car .
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