question about trailering

[MiataSteve]

I bolted a pair of rubber bimpers onto the trailer deck towards the front. I found the spot where the truck's rear suspension started to compress when the car was on the trailer. I placed the rubber stops against the front tires of the car at that spot and installed there. Serves as a stop for loading and as wheel chocks for braking. I figured there should be more loading during braking.

http://www.easternmarine.com/heavy-duty ... pair-b4000

[jeffw]

First gear and e-brake for me.

+1

I'm now a fan of belt and suspenders.

[WillM]

Neutral, no e-brake.

I never, ever tow in gear.

I pull my car onto the trailer and up to the wheel stop.
Turn it off and leave it in gear.
Attach the straps, leaving a bit of slack.
Pop the transmission into neutral.
Ratchet down the front straps to be very snug (with front wheels touching the wheel stops).
Ratchet down the rear straps tight.
Check he fronts to see if I can get another click on the ratchet.
Check the rears one final time.
Short front straps around the wheels.
Crossed rear straps to help avoid loosening in transit.

There have been a few times where a single extra click on a ratchet with the transmission in gear has caused the transmission to bind, which required pressing the clutch pedal to get the car out of gear, and when I pressed to clutch, I could feel things move. It did not feel good.

Apparently it works for some, but the one and only time I towed with my car in gear, and with a brand new clutch disc, the entire brand-new disc instantly evaporated on one side.

For the reasons Chris mentioned, and my experience, I am very careful about not towing the car in gear.

[paultg]

Interesting. Thanks for the info. Makes sense to me now.

[breakaway500]

Will..good point about binding down with a proper procedure! I was thinking today about why my chalks don't move,and realized it is because I strap the car wheels down against them. I do use the park brake if equipped,if I trust it to release on arrival..

[John F]

I've never been a fan of the crossed straps in the rear. I understand the belief that it keeps the car straight, but I have a fear that in an impact load (like T-boning someone who ran a light) one strap may fail. My straps are rated to 10k pounds each, but a 2k pound car at 50 mph has a lot of inertia. I prefer to have both the straps in a straight line so the dynamics don't get too weird. I was originally going to use chains on the rear and straps on the front, but got lazy

[Georgethefierce]

as Will said, towing with the car in gear is asking for trouble, as for people having the straps loosen on them, I had the same issue and was then taught to make sure your straps make a full loop around the ratcheting part of the strap, leave the strap a little loose when you start to tighten them and makes sure the strap goes completely around the cog at least once. I have had 0 issues with straps coming loose once I started doing this.

[naschmitz]

like T-boning someone who ran a light

If I T-bone someone at a light, I don't think the straps would be any more effective than seat belts during a plane crash.

[WillM]

Jason,

You bring up a good point. I don't remember if I read it on their website, or watched it in an instructional video, but I know that MAC'S Tie Downs suggests 3 full wraps for a slip-free tie-down. So when ratcheting down, I make sure I have at least 3 full wraps. Too many wraps can be bad, too. The strap can get to the point where it feels like you are tightening up the strap, but in reality the wad around the ratchet is too thick and the ratcheting mechanism is binding up.

Bert - LOL!

[Chrispy]

I had been doing 1 full loop but they were still loosening a little on me (after re-tightening they would usually stay put). Going to try the 3 loops this time and see how that works. It makes sense that more loops means more friction and hence slip resistance.

Thanks Will!

[brucesallen]

I've never been a fan of the crossed straps in the rear. I understand the belief that it keeps the car straight, but I have a fear that in an impact load (like T-boning someone who ran a light) one strap may fail. My straps are rated to 10k pounds each, but a 2k pound car at 50 mph has a lot of inertia. I prefer to have both the straps in a straight line so the dynamics don't get too weird. I was originally going to use chains on the rear and straps on the front, but got lazy

+1
A small accident can easily generate 10 Gs. That means a 3,000 pound car needs to be held back with 30,000 pounds. Two 10,000 lb. straps, each doubled back in a straight line will do it. It would not be fun to have our race car run over your head. I suggest that if you like sideways straps, also have rear-facing straps.

[CP]

I've never been a fan of the crossed straps in the rear. I understand the belief that it keeps the car straight, but I have a fear that in an impact load (like T-boning someone who ran a light) one strap may fail. My straps are rated to 10k pounds each, but a 2k pound car at 50 mph has a lot of inertia. I prefer to have both the straps in a straight line so the dynamics don't get too weird.

Same here. I never cross the rear straps after hearing horror stories about one breaking and the resultant "oh shit" moment in the rearview mirror based on what the car then was doing. I also do a few turns on the ratchet when tightening. Note too that the straps stretch when wet (raining) so check them after a half hour into a rain trip.

[KhanhD]

I cross both front and rear straps, and also use a chain in the rear parallel to the vehicle centerline. Crossing the straps secures the load fore and aft and side to side, and the chain is just an extra precaution in the event of a panic stop.

If youre worried about being hit and the crossed straps letting go, well, the straps being straight wont do much better either.

Ive seen a car shift sideways almost 4" on an open trailer with the straps not being crossed.

[CP]

My car has never moved an inch with straight straps.

[WillM]

I'm glad Rebecca asked this question and the great responses it generated...!

While not everyone's experiences have been the same, there is plenty of information here to point a newbie in the right direction and let them figure out (trial & error) what works best for their specific setup and preference.

I've gone through several different setups over the years and found what works the best for me.

• Ratchet-strap in front, fairly short, straight, with integrated axle strap around each wheel. Connects to a D-ring on the trailer.
• Ratchet-strap in back, approx 4' long, crossed, with integrated axle strap around a suspension pickup point on the subframe. Connects to a tab on the trailer.
• Front tires are positioned tight to hard-mounted, immovable wheel chocks before rear straps are tightened.

Before using the front wheels, I wrapped the front straps around a front control/ball joint. This made tying the car down a total PITA due to the location of my trailer box.
Before crossing the rears, I ran the straps straight back. They occasionally loosened a bit.
WIth straight straps front & back, and loading the car and driving in pouring rain, I had the back end of the car move a couple of inches.
I've moved to crossed straps in the back and have never had either of these issues - the straps have never loosened.

If I ever have a problem with this car/trailer or any other, I'll have no problems taking some advice here and trying a different setup!