Heat Cycling

[miatapeter]

I'm looking for suggestions and recomendations on tire "Heat Cycling"
I've been running on used Toyo Proxes given to me by by Spec Miata racers.
I'm now thinking of going to new Nitto NT01 to improve my lap times.
My question is, should I have Discount Tire heat cycle the tires or should I do it myself at the April track day?
Also, what's the proceedure for heat cycling?
Thanks for your help.
Miatapeter
ST4 #270

[TroyV]

I'm sure there will be many opinions on this.....and I certainly wouldn't want to offend the folks that believe this value added process helps them, but I strongly feel that heat cycling done at a shop on some rollers is a scam. It is money for nothing. I don't think it really does any better then running them for a session then pulling them off to let them cool yourself. As for me, I only heat cycle Hoosiers in this manner. The rest I just shoe and go. To me, RA1's, R888's and NT-01's are really a street tire packaged as a track tire, and I have never felt them change on me until they were just about down to cords.

I vote you save yourself a couple of bucks and cycle them yourself.

[Mick]

I'm sure there will be many opinions on this.....and I certainly wouldn't want to offend the folks that believe this value added process helps them, but I strongly feel that heat cycling done at a shop on some rollers is a scam. It is money for nothing. I don't think it really does any better then running them for a session then pulling them off to let them cool yourself. As for me, I only heat cycle Hoosiers in this manner. The rest I just shoe and go. To me, RA1's, R888's and NT-01's are really a street tire packaged as a track tire, and I have never felt them change on me until they were just about down to cords.

I vote you save yourself a couple of bucks and cycle them yourself.

Agree 100%

[dradernh]

There is absolutely no need to heat-cycle NT01s.

Here is the DIY first-heat-cycle procedure Hoosier recommends to get the most out of their R6s (source: http://www.hoosiertire.com/tctips.htm#T ... 0Procedure):

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The Initial Run Heat Cycle

R6 Roadrace

The first laps for the tire are critical for setting up the durability and competitive life. The first session should consist of no more than 10-15 minutes of running. The early part of the session should be run at an easy pace, with the speed gradually increased until the end of the session. The final lap should be run at the fastest possible speed. The intent is to achieve maximum tire temp on the last lap. At this point the car should be brought in and the tires allowed to cool at a normal rate.

During the initial run-in process, the inflation pressure should be 3-5 psi higher than you would normally use. The best progression would have the driver taking 4-7 laps to accomplish this break-in. Each lap should be approximately 7-10 seconds a lap faster than the previous lap. The goal is to have the tire temp as high as possible on the last lap without "shocking" the tire during the warm up laps. In essence, no wheelspin, late braking, or sliding. The last lap should be at, or very close, the maximum possible.

"Cure" Time
After completing the initial run phase, the length of time the tire is allowed to set is possibly more important. The barest minimum for this process to be beneficial is 24 hours. (Not "the next day"). Any less than this is a waste of time. The best situation would allow a week before using the tire again.

Proper tire management is a difficult process. To accomplish this almost always requires a second set of wheels. The payoff is greatly increased competitive tire life.

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The highlighted text is why I have the seller heat-cycle my tires for me. I've done it both ways, and would rather pay the $60 or $80/set to not have to bother with it. The only time I can be assured of being able to follow this very specific procedure is at a test-and-tune day; it's not possible to do it during DE-type sessions. I called Hoosier to ask what difference all this makes. The engineer(?) told me that I could expect 4-6 more heat cycles from the R6s if I followed their procedure, including giving the tire a week to rest.

[jeffw]

I do heat cycle my Toyo RA1s and Nitto NT01s following the same procedure as the Hoosiers, and it seems to help overall life. The Spec Miata guys have extensive time with the RA1, and proper break-in showed huge advantage in terms of useful life.

If you have a couple of sets of wheels, it's worth spending the time to put a cycle on and then let them sit for a day (or a week) if you can.

[CP]

Peter,

Do your first session at the test day on the new tires to "heat cycle" them. Then pull them off and use the set that I gave you for the rest of the day. I'll be doing the same with several sets of new tires at the SCCA test day the Friday before the COM event. I've found that non-cycled tires don't last as long and drop off much quicker than cycled tires. You should be able to get an entire season from a new set of Nittos. FYI: they suck in the rain, even at full tread depth.

On the Nittos: I REALLY didn't like them brand new with a full tread. They were heavy as hell, made a deep growling noise that was disconcerting and had a delay at turn-in until the tire would bite and actually turn the car...sort of a floaty feeling that didn't instill confidence at LRP at race speeds. This is coming from 3/32" shaved Toyos. If I were to run the Nittos again, I've have them shaved to the same depth as the Toyos that I mentioned...4/32nds at most.

-Cy

[miatapeter]

Thanks guys for all your input.
My plan at this time is not have the Nitto's heat cycled or shaved.
Run them the first session in April. I'll start at the back of the pack (so not to hold anyone up) and increase speeds in following laps. Switch to other to tires for balance of day and let Nittos cool untill May.
Cy, I'll be carefull in the rain And thanks again for the tires.
Peter
ST4 #270

[CP]

No problem Peter! I'll have some more "heat cycled" Toyos next summer if you want them