finally caved

[n1gzd]

I put a deposit on a Miata tonight. It will be my backup car next year. I will make the appropriate changes to it this winter (it is completely stock now). The initial plan is to keep it street-able (drive it to work in the summer).

The first thing that I need to do is decide whether I want to try a bolt in roll bar (and possibly a proper welded in one later). Are there any good ones or is a proper fabricated one a better way to go? I think that I am short enough for a roll bar under the hard top to be at least two inches higher than my helmet (but a lot of people must be too tall for a rollbar this short. In fact, a lot of people must be too tall to drive a spec miata. I have always wondered about that (they would have to have a bar that is taller than the hard top).

The second thing that I need to do is upgrade the suspension (stock seems to be pretty squishy). I am just starting to research the options (at this point I don't care what class this puts the car in I just want to have a car that is fun to drive).

The third thing that I need to do is go through the car and spiff up anything that looks like it should be replaced before it fails. The seller recommended that I change the radiator even though it looks good. I will change all of the brake lines (hard and flexible).

The Midget is the car that I want to drive but it will be a less reliable car and I can't really drive that car to work. This will probably be the car that I drive at least 50% of the time. Both of them will be ready by spring.

Rebecca

[jeffw]

I put a deposit on a Miata tonight. It will be my backup car next year. I will make the appropriate changes to it this winter (it is completely stock now). The initial plan is to keep it street-able (drive it to work in the summer).

Congrats! What year?

The first thing that I need to do is decide whether I want to try a bolt in roll bar (and possibly a proper welded in one later). Are there any good ones or is a proper fabricated one a better way to go? I think that I am short enough for a roll bar under the hard top to be at least two inches higher than my helmet (but a lot of people must be too tall for a rollbar this short. In fact, a lot of people must be too tall to drive a spec miata. I have always wondered about that (they would have to have a bar that is taller than the hard top).

If you mount the seat to the floor rather than on sliders, you pick up quite a bit of headroom.

The third thing that I need to do is go through the car and spiff up anything that looks like it should be replaced before it fails. The seller recommended that I change the radiator even though it looks good. I will change all of the brake lines (hard and flexible).

Miatas can run hot, especially in track traffic (ask Troy). A 37 or 55mm aluminum racing radiator can make a huge difference. I'd also replace all of the coolant hoses (esp the ones to the heater core) since they seem to go if they're old.

[n1gzd]

95 - I think that the 99 would have been a slightly better choice but for my first one that is going to remain steetable this one will be fine for what I am trying to use it for. The car appears to be very rust free but has some cosmetic issues (I am going to hit cones with it anyway).

Rebecca

[n1gzd]

should I remove the AC (will it cool better without that radiator blocking some wind)?
I was thinking that if the AC works well I should wait until it stops working before removing it. I don't know if it works (was not a factor in choosing the car).

Rebecca

[breakaway500]

Good decision on the Miata..it will be a LOT more like your MG than the Saab. I am assuming the "new" Miata is a manual shift? A bolt in rollbar is more than adequate..Boss Frog makes some good ones as well as Hard Dog.. you may as well get familiar with the various websites for Miatas:

This is Good-Win..They carry the Boss Frog rollbars... http://www.good-win-racing.com/

Another Miata website is 949 Racing: http://949racing.com/

And Flyin-Miata; Good people.. They carry the Hard Dog rollbars http://flyinmiata.com/

Flyin-Miata carries the V-Maxx coilovers very very reasonably priced,and they were excellent on my '95 Miata,with adjustable ride height,perfect dampening and spot on spring rates for a track/street Miata: http://flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid= ... %201990-97 I reccomend their 90-97 "NB" setup. It is as nice as my Afcos,for 1/4 of the money... You can pay more money for coilovers,but don't always get more performance. Leave the stock sways for now,check the links for wear. A good alignment as well. Lester at Apex Engineering is always a good choice for Miata work.... http://www.apexautoeng.com/Apex.html

Another Miata website: Saferacer...check out their Spec Miata stuff..they have Hawk pads for $90. I like the Spec Miata race seats by Ultra-Shield. Light,comfy and hold you firmly. (I believe a 16" would be your size) Like Jeff suggested,floor mounted seats will give you lots of clearance.I'm 6'2" tall,and pass the broomstick test with ease. Available from Saferacer for $300 with FREE shipping!...: http://www.saferacer.com/ultra-shield-s ... ductid=398

Tires/wheels; Get a dedicated set of track wheels/tires..you won't ever regret it. Toyo RA-1's seem to be a good choice on 15x7" wheels,,Hoosier R6's are popular as well. Good-win has a package deal..http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Pe ... -0046.html

Replace the brake hoses..all 4. Flush the brake fluid. Steel lines should be fine,unless visually rusty. Get good pads..I like the Carbotechs..but they are dirty and noisy,though.Hawks seem to be popular. Check wheel bearings for any play/roughness.

Replace the transmission and differential fluids. (I like synthetics)

Flush the clutch hydraulics and replace the slave cylinder..they are cheap,easy to swap out, and seem to fail when you least want them to..

Do a new timing belt,take a look at the water pump and see if it's weeping or loose...if so,replace it. New plugs and plug wires.Hoses,accessory belts as necessary..

A Toyo all aluminum replacement radiator is a good start for better cooling. The 37mm should be fine,unless you plan on HP mods.Make sure the electric fans are in good shape,not broken,loose or seized.

I never used the A/C in my Miatas, and removed them..15lbs less weight,much less clutter, and a straight shot for air to the radiator once the a/c condenser is removed. It's a convertible..if it gets too hot,put the top down..

I pity your poor credit card... Post some pics when you can. (you do know how to take pictures,right?... )

[n1gzd]

Mark,
Thanks for the excellent discertation. This is exactly the type of into that I am looking for.
There is a chance that I can drive the car as is (with squishy suspension and no safety changes) for the last autocross this fall but after that I will start "fixing" it (winter project which is second in priority to finishing up the Midget - both will be done by April).

Rebecca

[breakaway500]

I'd do a quick once over look-see at the brakes,suspension,and do an oil change and air up the tires for Devens..it will give you a good starting point to compare your future changes. I didn't even see that Oct 30th A/X date. It would be a good end of the year event!

[grovefromnh]

When I saw the subject of 'finally caved' I thought that you were about to get married. Good luck with your car.

[nateh]

Rebecca -

I used a Hard Dog bar on our '92 Miata, the "Rat." Went in great, seems very solid. And the car has been excellent on the track, in spite of its 170K miles and virtually no prep. (Although the motor is tired, so it's a bit slow even for SS.)

When preparing the car, in spite of what you say about class, I would recommend you keep a close eye on which class you are aiming at. It sounds like you're going for ST, which is a great choice for Miatas - but this is the part of the rule book that's easiest to get lost in. You don't want to inadvertently end up with the Beasties in SP.

Actually, I think you might want to consider keeping it in SS trim. Squishy yes, but still mega-fun - and cheap. And you'd have a small but good group of folks to play with.

- Nate

[n1gzd]

Nate, thanks for the comments. However, I am sure that I will not be happy keeping the car stock. I will aim for ST.
I just read the rules and it was not clear to me if you can have coilovers in ST. Is that acceptible?

thanks,
Rebecca

[WillM]

LOL!!!!

As soon as I saw the thread title I thought to myself, any subject on the COM forum that starts with "I finally caved" must end with "and bought a Miata"...!

[breakaway500]

Coilovers are OK in ST:

B. Suspension

1. Any bolt-in anti-sway bar(s) Panhard bar, torque arm and/or sway bar end links may be added, substituted, or subtracted.

2. Springs of any origin may be used, provided they fit without any changes in chassis or spring mounting points. Spring
spacers/shackles may be added to adjust ride height. Spring perches which are adjustable by means of a threaded collar
are allowed. In vehicles using torsion bar suspensions, the diameter (but not the length) of the torsion bars may be
changed.

3. Any shock absorbers may be used provided they attach to the original mounting points. The number of shock absorbers
must remain as stock.

The key words in ST are 'bolt in"..

[paultg]

Rebecca, I sometimes wish I kept my car in stock class and just installed the R-package suspension (factory option); which I think is legal but not 100% sure. Those springs and shocks can still be found, just so you know.

Paul G.

[paultg]

Also, as I mentioned in the NESVT email, Jeff Baker is trying to sell the roll bar in his current car. You should talk to him at NHMS if you are going to attended. The bar isn't very old, not that it matters anyway. - Paul G.

[WillM]

1995: Best year, especially if you live in Massachusetts...no ODB-II or emissions testing!

Hard brake lines: Keep 'em.
Soft brake lines: Upgrade to stainless braided. Several vendors carry Goodrich lines, Get lines that are teflon coated, to protect the braid.
Roll bar: M2 Hard Dog Hard Core Dual Diagonal. Tallest, strongest bar made by Hard Dog, and will allow you to use an 1999-2005 glass-rear window soft top.
You will need arm restraints.
Harnesses highly recommended.
Pick your favorite seats or stick with stock.
Brake pads: Carbotech XP10 front, XP8 rear.
Calipers: stock
Fluid: ATE, Motul, etc., pick your favorite.
Rotors: Stock / centric. About $12-15 each.
Suspension - keep it stock. There are plenty of take-off shocks & springs on the market.
That means springs: must be stock.
Shocks: Can be any manufacturer. Stock springs & Koni sport yellow adjustable shocks are more than enough for a track-day car.
Swaybars: stock
Radiator, aftermarket full aluminum. Cheap one like the Mishimoto is fine.

Run the car hard in SSC and enjoy it. Stock Miatas are a ton of fun and are considerably cheaper than today's competitive ST4 Miata.
Keep the car street-legal and fun to drive on the street. There are many benefits there.

Spend the money on seat time, maintenance, and when you are ready, real tires.