NHMS oct.31-nov.1

[Dragon Motorsports]

Hey, im new here. My names Omar. Im from MA. I drive a 1993 Nissan 240SX coupe. Im really excited to be apart of this club and am very excited for my first track day event . First, is anyone here attending this event? it would be cool to meet some people ahead of time. Also I just have some stupid questions that hopefully some of you guys can answer:
1. would this helmet be appropriate and meet requirements? http://www.helmetcity.com/page/HC/PROD/ ... lm/cl15red
2. I have an SR20DET with Greddy 80mm downpipe and HKS Hi-power (silent) exhaust i don't know if this will meet 89db sound requirement. HKS's website doesn't list this info.
3. Is there a height requirement? i have adjustable coilovers not sure if there is a certain height it must be at.
4. Does it matter if the car has a slight pull to the left or right? or must it be perfectly aligned?
5. one of my rear tires sidewall is a little worn? im not sure how to explain it, i will post a picture later. i just want to know if it will be okay or be sufficent enough for this event. i don't think its an issue but i would love someone elses opinion.

[jlwhorf]

1 Helmet is fine as long it is SNELL 2000 or newer.

2 NHMS is 99 dB, pretty much any street exhaust is legal.

3 There is no ride height restriction

4 Come on you should be able to answer this one. Do you want you car to pull at 100 mph?

5 If there are no cords showing, it is most likely OK.

[Dragon Motorsports]

Thanks! pretty much everything i expected. I think one of my suspension components are bent, i guess ill have to replace it. Also im not sure what class my car would be in? i would assume Showroom Stock (C). but im not sure, i read threw the rules and im a little confused. heres whats done on my car:
1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe:
SR20DET engine swap
-Blitz FMIC
-Greddy Oil Pan
-Walbro fuel pump
-HKS air intake
-Greddy Downpipe
-HKS hi-power catback exhaust
-Stance GR+Pro coilovers
- Battle version Tension Rods
-TEIN tie rods
-Rear subframe aluminum bushing inserts
Also do you think its better to have power steering or no?

[jlwhorf]

If the car is normally aspirated, it would be SPC. Power steering is easier to drive.

[brucesallen]

Although the forum users are glad to answer your newbie questions, you really should sign up on the COM home page for a mentor. A mentor will discuss all of your questions privately on the phone or in email and even shepherd you through the prep on the first day.

A comment: your car will undergo more stress on your school day on track than on the street. You must make sure the car is sound-- especially brakes and suspension and tires. No bent stuff. The engine, radiator, coolant, oil systems should be in good shape too if you want to make it through the day and you don't want to embarrass yourself by laying down slippery stuff for everyone else. In the dry, Less tire tread is better than more but the sidewall had better be in perfect shape.

[Dragon Motorsports]

thats a good idea, ill sign up for the mentor thingy. btw, my car is not N/A its turbo'd. will it still be SPC?

[escortracer]

Welcome to the club. The more the merrier. Reading your list of modifications I also agree that you have yourself missclassed. Showroom Stock has minimal modifications allowed. I also agree with Bruce Allen that you should check out the mentoring program offered.

[Mick]

thats a good idea, ill sign up for the mentor thingy. btw, my car is not N/A its turbo'd. will it still be SPC?

4 cylinder car would be SPC, add a turbo and it gets bumped up a class to SPB

[agrabau]

If you've been driving with power steering for a while- keep it. Best not to throw new ingredients into the mix at your first event.

Alex

[Dragon Motorsports]

i haven't been driving with power steerng, its hard to fight corners without it i feel like its working against me, i rather get my p/s working again. And thanks everyone for all the help and advice, hoping to meet you guys and make new friends along the way. I want to get seriously involved with motorsports hands on.

[jlwhorf]

If you are running a power rack that has been disconnected, I would advise against it, especially at NHMS. I'm not saying it can't be done, but you'll probably have some pretty sore arms at the end of the day.

[Kai Noeske]

My 2 cents - I am an absolute beginner, only did 4 track days so far. [Please ignore the rest if you are more experienced].

Power steering did not hurt at all, I was busy enough learning the new tracks and working on the line / rhythm / brake and throttle application points / smooth transitions / watching traffic / flag stations / etc. An easy steering wheel helped to steer more smoothly. I am assuming a manual steering rack is more direct/precise, but at the level I am at, the limit of precision is me, not the steering hardware.

What I found most essential about the track car, apart from the usual preparation check lists: stock brake pads don't cut it (at least in the front). I learned that the hard way - got severe heat fade, even in my little 2300 lbs car with not much speed that need to be braked away. Switching to a performance pad fixed it. The pad choice depends a lot whether it is a pure track car or also driven on the street. In any case, you need to have a pad on the track that can deal with the heat, failing brakes felt _really_ bad when there was a tight turn/wall/expensive car ahead. Also, bleeding the brakes with fresh high-temperature fluid (dot4, 5.1 or higher temperature - NOT DOT5 unless you are running a silicon brake fuid) is a good idea.

[brucesallen]

Kai's advice is terrific. I would add that the most important spec on the brake fluid is boiling point. Some racing brake fluids are 600F. I use Motul 600 DOT4.

[Kai Noeske]

Bruce: Agree. So far I used DOT4 Valvoline Synth (500F), but although I bleed my brakes right before track day, the pedal feels mushier the day after - could be I boil my fluid in the calipers. No problems on the track though. I already have ATE racing blue waiting to be tried out next - MOTUL 600 has a higher boiling point though.

[brucesallen]

Kai,
cars with tiny brakes can heat the fluid enough to cause debris to build up in the caliper. The fluid in the caliper will be cloudy and then easily boil. After each day on track bleed a few squirts out of the front caliper until the fluid it is clear.