1.6 Miata New Clutch problem....

[Georgethefierce]

I just did the clutch on my 1.6 miata, did NOT have the flywheel resurfaced but scuffed it with scotchbright....I've adjusted the free play and bleed the slave.

when it gets warm it slips BADLY in 2nd and 3rd, the rear main seal is not leaking and the pedal engages very low, if I raise it any higher the slipping gets worse, like there is pressure on the pressure plate. The pedal does NOT come up, like I've read happening when the master cylinder fails, it's just slipping badly.

I have since changed the slave cylinder and while the pedal feel is better the car started slipping again in 4th after about 15 minutes of normal driving

i can't really think of much else other than the flywheel....


I'd think if the flywheel was out of balance or smoked I'd have the issue 24/7....

not having much luck on the miata forum and figure MOM would be the next logical spot

[jadams]

I would suggest double checking your clutch travel adjustment. If it is slipping (and you do not have an oil leak), then that means that the pressure plate it not fully released and does not have full clamping force. Sounds to me like it is just a clutch freeplay adjustment. Or it could be that you are making way too much power for that clutch! Naaaa...I doubt that. Not sure why it would slip when warm and not when cold though.....that is very odd..

[WillM]

Jason,

Hate to ask, but are you sure you put the clutch disc in the right way?

While the disc CAN be installed "either way", only one way will work properly!

Hate to say it, but from the symptoms, it sounds like you put the disc in backwards.

[Georgethefierce]

Jason,

Hate to ask, but are you sure you put the clutch disc in the right way?

While the disc CAN be installed "either way", only one way will work!

fair question will, it's marked gear box side and we put it in correctly

[jlwhorf]

I have seen this problem before. Jamie K had this problem when we (com members) did Debbie Stohns engine swap at NHIS. From what I remember; he did a second clutch, new slave and master, and still had the problem in the during this part change sequence. The problem was solved (or went away). You could try pinging him, he is partners with Scott Rosnik (sorry for misspelling) at fastline automotive.

Jonathan

[cfossum]

When reading the problem, I was thinking that the clutch disk got installed backwards, then I saw that Will already posted that. It still seems likely.
Did you apply a lot of grease to the pilot bearing? Maybe some spun out.
If I remember right, I think Jamie's problem was that the new throw out bearing was too thick, like it was holding the clutch in a little all the time. That made the pedal engage high though, not low, so that's probably not the same problem.
Unfortunately, you may need to pull the transmission back out and take a look.
-Carl

[jlwhorf]

If I remember right, I think Jamie's problem was that the new throw out bearing was too thick, like it was holding the clutch in a little all the time. That made the pedal engage high though, not low, so that's probably not the same problem.

We pulled the tranny out sunday morning and put the original throw out bearing back in.

I chatted with Jamie after the saturday/sunday fiasco. He replaced the clutch (again at a later date) with one for the correct year engine, and still had the same problem.

Jonathan

[WillM]

I agree with Carl. Seems like you are at the point where the tranny needs to be dropped.

Did you use thread lock or RTV on the flywheel bolts, and did you torque them down to spec and in the correct sequence?

From all of the symptoms, it seems something went back together wrong.

By the way, I've never noticed any kind of markings (ie: "gear box side") on a stock clutch disc. Is it a Mazda disc? Sure it is the correct disc?

I should have a stock 1.6 disc, pressure plate (ACT), and flywheel, if you are in a pinch.

[Stynger]

Is this a stock clutch? Clutches I've done usually say "flywheel side,"

Regardless, it looks like it will have to come out.

My bet is on the pressure plate being defective.

With the slipping, I'd replace the whole thing. Make sure the flywheel is not glazed.

[Crusin]

What type of clutch material? I installed a metallic clutch. Put the car on the dyno at it would start slipping at about 3000RPM in 3rd gear. Pulled it and installed a stock clutch plate. Problem is the metallic clutch plates need a breaking in period to burnish the disk. Instructions called for about 500 miles or normal driving. A friend has used a belt sander for his drag car.

[Georgethefierce]

after much fiddling I got it figured out........I'm embarrassed to say that it needed MORE freeplay adjustment.....damn, I had messed with that for 2 weeks and finally got it to go away.

Thanks all for the input

[jadams]

That is what I figured......it really couldn't have been anything else. Glad to hear that you got it sorted out.

[Mark Swinehart]

That's what I figured it was too.

Now you can pick up and use your tires/wheels that have been sitting at my house for the last 6 months!!!!!

[rajito]

That's what I figured too. I can't wait to flip it.

Raj

[Georgethefierce]

That's what I figured it was too.

Now you can pick up and use your tires/wheels that have been sitting at my house for the last 6 months!!!!!

If they are at NHIS they will be ON the car (don't tell raj they are yellow!)