I'm in the early stages of designing a barn that will be used as a workshop and plan to add a 2 post lift. I was originally planning on 11' ceilings but from an initial search it looks like most standard size lifts require over 12'.
Given that the lift will drive the ceiling height I need to settle on the make/model ASAP. Anyone have a recommendation or general buying advice?
Thanks
Lift recommendations?
Re: Lift recommendations?
Mick call Glenn at tool and equipment connection He is a COM member and has sold me both of my lifts 888-594-7800
Bob
Bob
Re: Lift recommendations?
Will do, thanks for the tip Bob.
Re: Lift recommendations?
Pretty good article in the most recent Grassroots Motorsports too. Be worth a read.
Paul G.
#12
#12
- breakaway500
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Re: Lift recommendations?
Almost all lifts are made offshore nowadays and of similar construction. Some have roller bearings for the lift trolleys but unless you plan on handing the lift down to your grandson..skip the expense. Don't get talked into one that is too big (>9k.lbs) as the arms won't go under low cars without first jacking them up, and the posts will be too wide apart for small cars (wont reach fully under).
Clear floor models with nothing running between the posts on the floor are the easiest to use when working on transmissions etc. and their only annoyance is lifting vans. (balance cables run overhead)
Placement of the lift in your shop should be well considered. If you are going to need to drive through the uprights make sure you buy one wide enough to allow that (but not too wide to make it useless for smaller cars) If you are going to mount it near a wall make sure you leave adequate room for the doors to be fully opened, and a good option is to have a space in front of the lift for a dead car push-off area. Once you use a lift..you will toss your creeper in the trash...
Eagle lift:
I have an Eagle two post asymmetrical 9k.lb that is going on 20 years of age and use it every day. It has been trouble free and can lift anything I ever needed to work on. Asymmetrical designs puts the car mostly behind the posts so you can open the doors easily. Getting in and out without doing any paint damage is important. I also have a Mowhawk lift that cost 5 times as much as the Eagle. It's a drive over no post full height (6'6") lift portable scissors design that they don't make any longer. It has also been trouble free.
Most of the problems people have with lifts are caused by poor installation or abuse. Always to double check,triple check your lifting points and you won't have problems.
Clear floor models with nothing running between the posts on the floor are the easiest to use when working on transmissions etc. and their only annoyance is lifting vans. (balance cables run overhead)
Placement of the lift in your shop should be well considered. If you are going to need to drive through the uprights make sure you buy one wide enough to allow that (but not too wide to make it useless for smaller cars) If you are going to mount it near a wall make sure you leave adequate room for the doors to be fully opened, and a good option is to have a space in front of the lift for a dead car push-off area. Once you use a lift..you will toss your creeper in the trash...
Eagle lift:
I have an Eagle two post asymmetrical 9k.lb that is going on 20 years of age and use it every day. It has been trouble free and can lift anything I ever needed to work on. Asymmetrical designs puts the car mostly behind the posts so you can open the doors easily. Getting in and out without doing any paint damage is important. I also have a Mowhawk lift that cost 5 times as much as the Eagle. It's a drive over no post full height (6'6") lift portable scissors design that they don't make any longer. It has also been trouble free.
Most of the problems people have with lifts are caused by poor installation or abuse. Always to double check,triple check your lifting points and you won't have problems.
It's not what you drive, it's how you drive. "Lap times matter"
Re: Lift recommendations?
With a 2 post lift, I'd recommend on paying for professional install.
I had one installed last year and the install cost was less than $600 bucks. The installer took care or receiving the lift from BendPak, trailering it to my house, along with a forklift, 2 guys for the install and setup - about 4 hours of work- and removal of all packing material.
I used AHClifts from Manchester NH.
I've put together a couple 4-post lifts with my dad, which are forgiving on the install. A 2-post needs to be dead nuts, and I think you get your money's worth paying for the install. This is just erection and the setup of the lift and hydraulics, electrical would be separate.
I had one installed last year and the install cost was less than $600 bucks. The installer took care or receiving the lift from BendPak, trailering it to my house, along with a forklift, 2 guys for the install and setup - about 4 hours of work- and removal of all packing material.
I used AHClifts from Manchester NH.
I've put together a couple 4-post lifts with my dad, which are forgiving on the install. A 2-post needs to be dead nuts, and I think you get your money's worth paying for the install. This is just erection and the setup of the lift and hydraulics, electrical would be separate.
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