R compound tires.
The tire squeal issue is interesting. My RT615 Falkens had 2 distinct sounds, normal (happy tire) squeal, and Sam you over cooked me howl!
I am still leaning to the Toyos Now price shopping. (mutter mutter)- I suppose that means ANOTHER set of wheels!!
I am still leaning to the Toyos Now price shopping. (mutter mutter)- I suppose that means ANOTHER set of wheels!!
Sam
Chief of Operations
#41 Nissan 200SX SER T40
Chief of Operations
#41 Nissan 200SX SER T40
After a ride in Toyo, you will be glad to get rid of the 615s. My bald RA1s grip much better than my 50% worn 615s. They are nearly 3 sec faster at the track. They are better in hte rain (Unless you hit high speeds), quieter and less bumpy. What is so bad about it? Heck, they were even good enough to win me an autox here and there too. I drove the RA-1 400 miles to WV toochaos4NH wrote:The tire squeal issue is interesting. My RT615 Falkens had 2 distinct sounds, normal (happy tire) squeal, and Sam you over cooked me howl!
I am still leaning to the Toyos Now price shopping. (mutter mutter)- I suppose that means ANOTHER set of wheels!!
I was impressed with the RA1s in the rain last year at Grattan. They even stuck better than the all-season G-Force KDWS tires that came stock on my car.
2001 Corvette Z06
2005 Pontiac GTO LS2/T56 ST1 #52 (sold)
1970 Corvette LS1/T56 ex-SSGT (sold too)
http://www.kmmotorsports.com
2005 Pontiac GTO LS2/T56 ST1 #52 (sold)
1970 Corvette LS1/T56 ex-SSGT (sold too)
http://www.kmmotorsports.com
My BALD RA-1s got me through a trip from WV back to CT through the Noreaster in the down pour. They don't grip over 60mph, but i can tell you they work better than my Azenis below that. There is less sliding and drifting going on with them on. I love those tires, they are awesome. I think I only have to replace them because i keep killing hte outer edge
Hmmmmm, 3 seconds faster that the 615s!! Did you here that Frank?
Now we just need brakes (carbotech working some up), a few more ponies from a Cat Back (MS cat back on order), suspension (still down the road a bit), and a decent driver (working on that - learned a lot at WGI).
Thanks again for all the info!!
Now we just need brakes (carbotech working some up), a few more ponies from a Cat Back (MS cat back on order), suspension (still down the road a bit), and a decent driver (working on that - learned a lot at WGI).
Thanks again for all the info!!
Sam
Chief of Operations
#41 Nissan 200SX SER T40
Chief of Operations
#41 Nissan 200SX SER T40
I hear ya dude. This is starting to sound like old times...chaos4NH wrote:Hmmmmm, 3 seconds faster that the 615s!! Did you here that Frank?
Now we just need brakes (carbotech working some up), a few more ponies from a Cat Back (MS cat back on order), suspension (still down the road a bit), and a decent driver (working on that - learned a lot at WGI).
Thanks again for all the info!!
First it was Scott Bleiwiese, then Pete Poli...I love the competition.
Just not sure how I feel about getting beat by a station wagon
Let me see..$$$$
Subaru Legacy GT #67
"Track time is my enemy"
- Frank Perron
"I remember when sex was safe and racing was dangerous."
"Track time is my enemy"
- Frank Perron
"I remember when sex was safe and racing was dangerous."
yes 3 sec faster at LRP and Pocono and 7 sec faster at VIRchaos4NH wrote:Hmmmmm, 3 seconds faster that the 615s!! Did you here that Frank?
Now we just need brakes (carbotech working some up), a few more ponies from a Cat Back (MS cat back on order), suspension (still down the road a bit), and a decent driver (working on that - learned a lot at WGI).
Thanks again for all the info!!
Sounds like you are camber-challenged. I usually have the tires unmounted and flipped around on the rims to get more even wear, midway through the season. Sure, it costs about $40 to do so, but that's cheaper than a whole new set of tires.tmak26b wrote:I think I only have to replace them because i keep killing hte outer edge
--Michael
ST4 Miata #176
- StephanAlfa
- Speed Racer
- Posts: 1646
- Joined: Tue Jun 27, 2006 6:01 am
- Location: Merrimack, NH
Sam:
For the Toyo RA1 deal what I did is get a quote on line (I forgot which outfit) and then go to National Tire Warehouse here in Nashua and get a quote form them. When I showed I got a better price on line they matched the price.
Make sure you get a packaged price with mounting and balancing.
If you decide to get on line I suggest you mount them at Direct Tire in Milford (the old Tire Warehouse). This unless you have a reliable tire mount shop nearby.
Good choice on the Toyos. I forgot to mention the rain factor with Toyos as they are good (with thread) on rain. This will prevent you from getting a set just for rain. I already had the Yokohamas so no loss here.
For the Toyo RA1 deal what I did is get a quote on line (I forgot which outfit) and then go to National Tire Warehouse here in Nashua and get a quote form them. When I showed I got a better price on line they matched the price.
Make sure you get a packaged price with mounting and balancing.
If you decide to get on line I suggest you mount them at Direct Tire in Milford (the old Tire Warehouse). This unless you have a reliable tire mount shop nearby.
Good choice on the Toyos. I forgot to mention the rain factor with Toyos as they are good (with thread) on rain. This will prevent you from getting a set just for rain. I already had the Yokohamas so no loss here.
Just bought a set of hankook z214's in 205-50-R15 and will be taking to Limerock this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes. word on the street is they are as close to as sticky as hoosier's (probably 95% true) but the tires last somewhere between hoosiers and toyos.
Last edited by mossaidis on Thu May 03, 2007 12:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
yup -.8 on LF and -1.0 on RF, cant set them neither. I just have to buy a lot of tires to compensate for the car's short comingBrakeL8r wrote:Sounds like you are camber-challenged. I usually have the tires unmounted and flipped around on the rims to get more even wear, midway through the season. Sure, it costs about $40 to do so, but that's cheaper than a whole new set of tires.tmak26b wrote:I think I only have to replace them because i keep killing hte outer edge
--Michael
ST4 Miata #176
Hey Mickey,
I ran a set of the 214's (205/50-15) for the first time at the Glen. This was the first outing for my "new" car, and I was pretty busy at the event, so I didn't really push them much.
Compared the the RA-1, the construction seems much different. The Hankook is a slightly heavier tire, with significantly sitffer sidewalls. Construction seems more inline with Hoosiers.
I found that the Hankooks like a bit more pressure than the RA-1s. Probably about 2 pounds or so, cold. I normally start the day on RA-1s with pressures around 31-33, depending on the weather and track conditions. The Hankooks needed a couple of extra pounds (about 34 cold) to get into the "zone". Whereas the RA-1 tops off at 40PSI hot, it seems the Hankooks could go to 41-42°F before they start to drop off. The 2nd day at WGI was a little on the overcast/chilly side, and my temps maxed out just shy of 40°F. I used a pyrometer to check the temps, and am thinking a little higher would have provided more even temps across the tire's tread. This is all very preliminary though.
Before you get to Lime Rock, I would suggest you scrub in the Hankooks. Take them out and bring them up to temp, then immediately jack the car, dismount the tires, and stack them for 24 hours. Some will say that the Hankooks will be good to go as soon as they have cooled to ambient, but this is the minimal cool-down time. I would suggest 24 hours. Not "one day", "over night", etc., but at least 24 hours. This would be a good break-in / scuffing / heat-cycling procedure for the Toyos and Kumhos as well.
The Hankooks seem promising, and though I expect they will offer more ultimate grip, I do not expect them to be as well-suited for COM duty as the RA-1s. Typical COM weekends involve 7 or more heat-cycles, which the RA-1s seem to handle with ease. Other tires, as Borat might say, "not so much".
- Will
I ran a set of the 214's (205/50-15) for the first time at the Glen. This was the first outing for my "new" car, and I was pretty busy at the event, so I didn't really push them much.
Compared the the RA-1, the construction seems much different. The Hankook is a slightly heavier tire, with significantly sitffer sidewalls. Construction seems more inline with Hoosiers.
I found that the Hankooks like a bit more pressure than the RA-1s. Probably about 2 pounds or so, cold. I normally start the day on RA-1s with pressures around 31-33, depending on the weather and track conditions. The Hankooks needed a couple of extra pounds (about 34 cold) to get into the "zone". Whereas the RA-1 tops off at 40PSI hot, it seems the Hankooks could go to 41-42°F before they start to drop off. The 2nd day at WGI was a little on the overcast/chilly side, and my temps maxed out just shy of 40°F. I used a pyrometer to check the temps, and am thinking a little higher would have provided more even temps across the tire's tread. This is all very preliminary though.
Before you get to Lime Rock, I would suggest you scrub in the Hankooks. Take them out and bring them up to temp, then immediately jack the car, dismount the tires, and stack them for 24 hours. Some will say that the Hankooks will be good to go as soon as they have cooled to ambient, but this is the minimal cool-down time. I would suggest 24 hours. Not "one day", "over night", etc., but at least 24 hours. This would be a good break-in / scuffing / heat-cycling procedure for the Toyos and Kumhos as well.
The Hankooks seem promising, and though I expect they will offer more ultimate grip, I do not expect them to be as well-suited for COM duty as the RA-1s. Typical COM weekends involve 7 or more heat-cycles, which the RA-1s seem to handle with ease. Other tires, as Borat might say, "not so much".
- Will
96 Miata #72 SC
PRA 4
PRA 4
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