Brake pads

General chat that fellow COM'ers may be interested in.
grovefromnh
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Location: Epping, Nh

Re: Brake pads

Post by grovefromnh » Tue Sep 03, 2013 8:03 pm

Don't forget to remove the rotor backing plates as they help to hold heat in. Second, Get an old toaster oven , put it outside, then bake your new pads ( no touching or overlap of pads) at 350' for 30 min (just like cookies!!) Let pads cool down WITHOUT opening oven door. This outgasses pads, making them work right away without any breakin. When I ran my Camaro, then my Vette I rigged up a seperate windshield washer fluid tank with a on-off swirch tied into the brake light switch. I then fed the water from the tank to windshield washer squirters mounted so they would spray directly into the center of the rotor (space between braking surfaces) with the electric moror in the bottom of the tank. After 2-3 warmup laps I'd hit the switch so water was applied only when I was on the brakes. Minimal water used so didn't wet track down. Used my rotors for many events. Didn't use it for the TT itself as only 3 laps. Also: When you get the checkered flag, SLOW DOWN!! use the cooldown lap as just that. Lowers brake temps, oil temps, tranny temps and diff temps. Don't touch brakes until you turn into paddock. Enjoy!!
30+ yr member

djsteviec
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Location: Wallingford, CT

Re: Brake pads

Post by djsteviec » Tue Sep 03, 2013 8:12 pm

Hey guys,

My 2 cents, even though I do not have all that much experience on the track.

Try the Disc Italia Hyper Ceramic from brakeworld.com

We ran these on the MR2 @ Lemons in October last year at NHMS.
The car was about 2400-2500lbs IIRC.
We drove it hard there for 3 days straight. 6hrs day 1, 7hrs day 2, and 7hrs day 3. The entire weekend on 1 set of pads, with no fade.

They are def worth a try!
Steve Cohen- AKA- Baller, DJ STEVIE C.

#204 1987 Honda CR-X Si- T30
1989 Celica GT-S (coming back soon)

962porsche
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Location: hamden ct.

Re: Brake pads

Post by 962porsche » Tue Sep 03, 2013 9:22 pm

fire baller you don't need brakes when your running into carls RX7 to slow you down !
but now in a real note
the differents between a crap street pad on a lemons car is nothing like a fullrace pad on a real race car were your looking for every second . then there is the fact that a turbo MR2 putting out twice the hp and torques of a rx7 that the RX7 should never catch you and pass you ! just look at the times of carls rx7 to the times of the mr2 then add in the fact that nhms is a track that is hard on brakes so good brakes also equal to a faster lap . just beacuse a car does not get brake fade does not in away mean the brakes are good and worth buying . there are many factors that will not give a car brake fade . one is cooling ducts like i installed on the MR2 then there is the fluid you use the dot 4 plus in the mr2 also helps stop brake fade and boiling fluid .

jstan
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Joined: Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:18 pm

Re: Brake pads

Post by jstan » Wed Sep 04, 2013 8:24 am

Cobalt XR1 front, XR2 rears.

http://www.cobaltfriction.com/

I have an 02 Z06, Motul 600 brake fluid, cooling ducts, SS lines, stock calipers, Napa rotors and run on Pirelli slicks.

Last year I used Hawk HP Plus, these pads are night and day. I recommend them to everyone I talk to who wants an upgraded pad.

dradernh
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Location: So. NH

Re: Brake pads

Post by dradernh » Wed Sep 04, 2013 9:23 am

jstan wrote:Cobalt XR1 front, XR2 rears.

I have an 02 Z06, Motul 600 brake fluid, cooling ducts, SS lines, stock calipers, Napa rotors and run on Pirelli slicks.

Last year I used Hawk HP Plus, these pads are night and day. I recommend them to everyone I talk to who wants an upgraded pad.
No doubt. From Essex's blurb on the HP+: "Essex does not recommend the HP+ for track driving unless your car is light, has low power, and is on street tires." Also: "Max Operating Temp 1000F."; whereas the XR1/2 have a max temperature of 1600F.
'95 M3 LTW #283 SB

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