Super Class Guide

[blindsidefive0]

As you should already know, FP/P/SP classes are gone and Super Classes are in. Competitors should consult the new rule book, posted here: http://comscc.org/rules/; however, there are a few tips when buying/building a car for Super Classes.

The new COMSCC Super Classes range account for horsepower, torque, and weight; that's it. There are a lot of other power/weight based classes in other clubs, so even though COM hasn't run something like this yet, there is a lot of info on what will make you successful.

Start with a good platform - ideally a purpose-built kit car, something with a good suspension design and potential for significant downforce out of the box. If this is not the case, a well-balanced street car can be a good substitute (although step 2 becomes that much more important). Make sure that if you are in the bigger Super A or Super B classes you have a chassis that can actually handle a lot of power. If money is no object, something like the Ford GT would be ideal; if you're like the rest of us, you probably can't beat a Corvette C5, Porsche 996, BMW e90/92, Nissan Z, or AWD monster (STi/Evo). In the smaller classes like Super C and D, handling is everything - an NC MX-5, s2000, or e30/e36 is probably your best bet - while these cars could do OK in the biggest classes, even if you can beef up the motor, you may have trouble getting the power to the ground, handicapping yourself. If you have an fox body mustang, NA Miata with an LS motor, or 2nd generation Camaro you can still have fun, but theoretically your car won't be very competitive.

Take advantage of the unlimited modifications - maybe you don't have the Flying Lizard team prepping your 997 GT3 RSR, but at least get the bang-for-the-buck basics. Tires, suspension, aero, drivetrain, and brakes should all be "good". Building a really good Super Class car is never going to be cheap, but a "moderate budget" build might include something like: 1 set of TT tires for the season like an A6, BFG R1-S, or takeoff slick scrubs from a pro race series that runs your size, Koni Ground Control coilovers/sway bars/camber plates, front bumper/splitter/rear wing, clutch/flywheel, steeper gearing, and a big brake kit. Looking at cars built for NARRA, NASA TTS/TTU, NASA GTS, BMWCCA mod classes, etc. will give you a good benchmark.

Dial-in your weight/power ratio to the top of a particular class - This seems obvious, but if you are in Super B with a weight/power of 12.0 and the limit of the class is 9.0, you're going to have a bad time. In practice, your motor is not going to be easy to dial up/down once your build is complete. You could pull timing, add a sound deadening muffler, or yank a spark plug or two to limit power, but in all reality no one wants to do that. Instead, I'd recommend getting your car dyno'd and then find the exact weight that you need to hit - then either rip stuff out or add some ballast. Make sure to use the calculator that will be built into the classing spreadsheet help to figure this out... Don't like adding weight to your car...you could always try this: http://www.amazon.com/Super-Size-DVD-Jo ... B0002OXVBO

Anyway, I hope these suggestions help you figure out your strategy.

Running in Super? Post your questions, comments, or car/build here.

[n1gzd]

I am pretty sure that if I dyno my midget and weigh it I will be able to easily show that it is a Super D (same as my miata if I wanted to). However, it will be a while before I can do that so I tried estimating using alternate methods just out of curiosity. Using alternate methods I come up with Super C even for the stock MG vehicle. The power comes out way too high and the weight comes out way too low (lower than the car empty with no fuel or driver). I expect to resolve this by using real data but you might be curious to see how it came out. I think that an old technology engine will come out with HP too high by this method (carburetor etc) and a car that is already very stripped down by original design will come out too light using this method. It probably only works reasonably for modern cars with advanced technology engines and airbags and other heavy body components that can be removed.

This is probably a pointless exercise but here are some numbers. I realize that none of these numbers are usable for anything:

Here it is first with the stock numbers (COM data seems to match Wikipedia):
curb wt = 1701
displacement mult - 1.275L X 80 = 102
v/c mult = 2 values per cylinder = .85
no forced induction
rpm mult ((6500-6000)/6000)+1 = 1.08
(note that it is unlikely that you will hit redline with stock engine)
competition wt = 1701 x .85 = 1445.85
(car probably weighs about 1638 lbs with fuel and driver after stripping it - but I will weigh to be sure)
Power – displacement mult x values/cylinder x rpm multiplier = 102 x .85 x 1.25= 108.375
COM base class data says that it is 57 HP (not at wheels)

Assessment:
1445.85/108.375 = 13.34

updated engine:
same except:
Power – displacement mult x values/cylinder x rpm multiplier = 105.92 x .85 x 1.25= 112.54 (test stand dyno says 93hp – to wheels will be less).
Disp mult = 1.324 x 80 = 105.92
RPM mult – ((7500-6000)/6000)+1 = 1.25
Builder told me to set limiter at 7500 even though cam can go a little higher.

Assessment:
1445.85/112.54 = 12.84

Guesstimates using more likely numbers:
Probably something more reasonable for the stock vehicle would be:
1701/50 = 34
(power is at the wheels right, if so, this might even be a little high).

updated MG vehicle:
1638/85 = 19.27
(test stand showed 93 hp but possibly will get a little more in better test - guessing loss to wheels)

my miata (using dyno number):
2509/93 = 26
(not sure about the weight - paper not with me, definitely more than 200 lb over so my memory is close)

I realize that these are just hacky guesses. I was just curious about it before having measured data. I could get more accurate data for my miata from my dyno sheet but it is in the trailer ( I will probably just keep in T40 but was curious about what if I decide to keep points with MG).