Unequal pad wear

[Chrispy]

Jeff, the last time I saw aggressive pad taper it was because the pads were too soft. Are you using the same compound that you used to? These are the stock single piston calipers I presume?

[6PAK72]

STOCK 1.6 NA calipers, Dtc60 front, 30 rear, new master ( ! ) thoroughly bled. Stock 1.6 rotors.

[WillM]

STOCK 1.6 NA calipers, Dtc60 front, 30 rear, new master ( ! ) thoroughly bled. Stock 1.6 rotors.

Carbotech pads + stock Miata calipers + driving faster = pad taper.

Didn't Liz drop some significant time and set a personal best at this event? Didn't you also do the same, and win ST4?

It isn't so much that the equipment changed...

BTW, I always had crazy pad taper with the Carbotechs. Stepping up to XP12/XP10 F/R from XP10/XP8 F/R helped a little bit.

To get better life, and regain pedal feel, swap the pads around every or every-other day. This will even out the wear.

Brake cooling ducts should help a bit too. Not sure if you have 'em, or if they are legal for your class.

[TroyV]

That's weird. I don't get that kind of taper at all, and have been running XP10/8 since I got the car.

[subsonic]

I have noticed over the years since the introduction of 4 channel ABS,pad wear on cars to be uneven,particularly on cars that are driven hard. I believe this to be the direct result of the abs system being able to control the application pressure on each caliper individually of the others..therefore the unequal wear to the pads from corner to corner.Unless you find something mechanically wrong with a caliper,as in sticking pistons or misalignment of the pad carrier,I would say not to worry.

Yes - ABS and plenty of trail braking will do that with heavy cars. I've learned to lived with it, I swap the pads around (just like tires) in an attempt to prolong their life. I'd not worry about it.

As for ABS and getting 'both feet in' - I am with Nate on this one: disable it or run the risk it will turn your car into wall when you get ' both feet in'.

[Chrispy]

That's weird. I don't get that kind of taper at all, and have been running XP10/8 since I got the car.

Do you actually use the brakes in that car? Haven't you had the same pads in there for like 3 years?

[TroyV]

I just put in my 4th set of front pads, and 2nd set of rear pads in....well.....3.5 seasons and probably close to 10k track miles. I run those suckers straight down to around a few mm off of the plates though.

[WillM]

That's weird. I don't get that kind of taper at all, and have been running XP10/8 since I got the car.

I knew I shouldn't have sold that car.

[TroyV]

Too late......besides...you got good money for it.

[6PAK72]

@Will, no complaints, just a new condition.

I'm paying close attention to any change right now....

[CP]

Are you using the factory rattle clips which allow the pads to slide on the caliper bracket? If not then your pads could be moving around excessively. I hit the clips with a brass/wire brush between events to keep the pads sliding freely on them. I also re-lube all my slide pins between race weekends because brakes are important.

[boltonite]

Regarding the original post, might want to examine the RF wheel bearing/hub, the pad wear can be an early warning sign of impending failure. -FF

[Chrispy]

Thanks I'll check that out. I gave it a quick check while I was swapping the pads out but I will take a closer inspection.

[CP]

Any fore/aft or side/side play in the wheel (jacked up) means the front hub is toast. If you drive on it, the wheel will eventually part ways with the rest of the vehicle. A popular mod is to re-pack front hubs with a moly grease like Redline CV2. I've got a hub on order from Mazdaspeed and I'll be tearing it apart for a grease job as soon as it arrives.

[Chrispy]

How do you disassemble these modern hubs? Do you just use a press like you would for the older hubs with serviceable bearings?